Alleppey, India: 550kmalreadycycled fromMysore. We'dallriddenintotownto stockuponginandlimesbeforesetting sailthroughKerala'sspectacular backwatersonhouseboats- convertedrice barges. Strictordershadbeengivenfrom ourgroupleaderPeter, toeachfinda fetchingsarong; theyweretobeour ticketsontotheboattoKollam. Whenyoucombinealabyrinthof shimmeringwaterways, encompassedby lusciousgreenpaddyfields, endlesspillars ofcoconuttreesthroughwhichthesetting sunrepeatedlypokeshercrimsonface, andawell- icedG& Tinhand, timeseems tostandstill. Riversidevillagesand enormousprotrudingframesofspider-webbedfishingnetsslidebyinthisso-called' VeniceoftheEast'. Lessonsincat-fishingwithmake- shiftlinesandbaked flourweregivenoutbythecaptain. The eveningclosedwiththecrewproducing ahugelyimpressiverangeofsavoury localdishesoutoftheirtinycooking quarters; vegetariansduginfearless, asIndiancuisinetrulycatersforall dietaryrequirements. Indiaistheperfectplacetoplay trickswiththehumansensesandcycling theidealvehicletopenetrateparts inaccessiblebyfourwheels. Overcoming themind- bogglingpopulationofIndia wastheimmediatechallengeinMysore andtheartofweavingaroundseemingly suicidalrickshaws, road- hoggingtrucks andjaywalkerswasmasteredearlyon. By necessitybellswereusedwithattitude. In Mysore'sDevarajamarket, theconcoction ofexoticfruit, smoulderingincenseand psychedelicpilesofpungenttikkapowder holdsthenosehostage. Herebargainsare wagedforthecity'sfamouswool- silk fabricsandanyonewithaweaknessfor trinketsandwoodenelephants. youcan neverhaveenough! Fromtheidyllic' WildHaven'rustic planters'bungalow, thegroupembarked onadaythey'dneverforget. Emotions wererunninghighinprospectofthetour's mostepiccyclingchallengeandtoilet humourwasasripeaseverfromanother eventfulnight'ssleepinthecamp. Peter's well- rehearseddailyroutenoteswere distributedandfingerscasuallyranthe lengthofaninnocentlookingzig- zagto ournexttea- stop15kmahead. Behind thislinelayateeth- clenchingsecret thatwouldstretchthegroup'sphysical limitsandputthemface- to- facewith the' Challenging'partofthetour'sgrade. Forfivehours,' holiday'wouldshiftgear into' mission'( 1stgeartobeexact), and southernIndia'sTamilNaduwouldbeput onthemapforever. 26 When, onacrispOctoberLondonmorning, myneighbourcaughtmetakingouttherubbishinaT- shirtand bluesarong, questionsandeyebrowswereunderstandablyraised. Here'showthismomentcametobe. AscentofKerala

www. exodus. co. uktel08458639660sales@ exodus. co. uk27 Battle- stations: up36mercilesshairpin bends, deepintotheNilgiriHills, heading forUdhagamandalam,' Ooty', theQueenof HillStations, sittingserenelyat2240m. Whateverbreathyoucouldclawoutalong theascentwaswhiskedawaybythe surroundingbreathtakingtableauxof sprawlinggrassland. Everycyclisthasa pacethey'rehappywith, andwhereasthe record- breakersofthegroupmaydisappear intothemirageahead, thesupportvehicle willalwaysshadowthetailofthegroup. Therearenomedalsforbeingfirstto reachthetop, justthewelcomecoolairof piercedcloudsandasoaringsenseof achievement. Waitingmasseurswere warmingtheirAyervedicoils, readyforthe victoriousatthestunninghilltophotel. Butwhatgoesupmustcomedown - anddown- anddown! Thefollowing morningadramaticdescentlayinstore thatblewanypreviousrollercoaster experienceapartinseconds. Below, theWesternGhatswerewakingup; tea- plantationworkershustledinthe slopingfieldsandmonkeyschatteredin thetropicalforest. Fromoutoftheclouds thegroupfreewheeled2200mdown throughthetreesalmosttheentireday, towardstheholytownofGuruvayoor. It's abeautifullyintensivedescent, amplified bythepreviousday'sgrindingclimb, withpowerfulcoloursandnatureswirling pastatexhilaratingspeed- guaranteed ear- to- earsmilesallround. Spiritually, Guruvayoorisintensely movingandprovidesthebestopportunity toseeelephantsdolleduptothetrunkin intricategilthead- dressesandbells. On festivaldays, thetownbuzzeswithfolk adornedintheirbestlongiandsariseager tojoininwiththenightpoojaattheSree KrishnaTemple. Infrontoftheimmense templedoors, mahoutswereleading theirelephantsinsidethetemplewhile beautifullydecorateddancersperformed traditionalroutines. Thespectacleis bothstunningandsoulsoothingfor anyonlooker. NextdayisaridebetweenCochin andVarkala. Huggingthecoastalroad, hardenedbuttocksweretestedalonga semi- repairedroad, damagedbythe2004 tsunami. Lovewasintheairthatdaywith ararechancetoreceiveahugfromMata Amritanandamayi(' TheHuggingSaint') at hersanctuary- anembracethatbrought tearstotheeyesofmany. Finallywe reachedtheflower- powertownofVarkala, standingimposinglyonasheercliffface. Fineseafoodrestaurants, craftstoresin whichtospendthoselastfewrupees, emptybeachesandstirringsunsetsareon themenu. It'saperfectfinaleforaching musclesafter850kmofSouthernIndiain thesaddle. ThisExodustripcamewithatwist. Itwasthefirst' Solo'departuretobe road- testedonthistour- anewconcept launchedtoridsingletravellers'anxieties ofjoiningatourdominatedbycouples. Here, everyoneishandedacleanslateand thesocialemphasisripplesthroughthe groupfromthefirstday'sbreakfast onwards. Friendshipwastobethe signatureofthisrideandtheentiregroup reunitingfordinnerinLondonamonth laterisevidenceenoughofthis. Special thanksareparticularlyduetogroupleader Peter, EnglishbornbutnowresidinginSri Lankawithhiswifeandson, he'sclocked up12yearsofleadingthistour. Hisastute directionwassubtlyimposedandhislocal knowledgerankedashighlyasanylocal, deeplyconscientiousinunearthingan Indiafarbeneaththesurfaceofeveryday travelbooks. Somysarongtellsamultitudeof tales, butmostofallremindsmeof acountrythattestedmephysically, revivedmespirituallyandunequivocally charmedeveryboneinmybody. Iwearit withpride. WillShoubridge, Exodus WilltravelledonaSolodepartureof Kerala& TropicalIndia( MIK) Indiaisthe perfectplaceto playtrickswith thehumansenses andcyclingisthe idealvehicleto penetrateparts inaccessibleby fourwheels" "